Nail prep step by step: how to prepare your nails properly

A durable nail extension or reinforcement starts with the right nail prep. In this guide, we go through the entire prep step by step, from mechanical prep and cuticle work to Multi Mist, Bonder, Primer and Grip Crime.

1. If you use nail tips

If you are going to do a nail extension with tips, you start by only filing down the free edge of the natural nail where the tip will be attached. This can be done with a Sanding Band or a hand file. Then attach the tips and continue with the full mechanical prep.

How to choose the right size, attach the tip and place it correctly is covered in more detail in our guide to nail tips.

2. Mechanical nail prep step by step

The purpose of the mechanical prep is to push back the cuticles, remove dead skin from the nail plate and file down the surface of the nail so that the material has the best possible conditions to adhere.

Step 1 Cuticle Clean Bit

Start with the Carbide Cuticle Clean Bit.

E-file speed: 1 to 2

Work carefully around the cuticle area. Use the Carbide Cuticle Clean Bit to carefully push back and lift the cuticles and remove dead skin along the cuticle on the nail plate.

The Carbide Cuticle Clean Bit is grooved instead of granulated. The grooves effectively grip the softer dead skin and help remove it, while the bit is gentle on the natural nail and does not damage it. This makes it both effective and safe to work with, and a perfect choice even for beginners who want to feel safer with the e-file.

It is important to remove the skin because the material needs to adhere directly to the natural nail. If the material is instead applied on top of remaining skin, it will have a weaker adhesion and the risk of lifting increases.

Step 2 Flame Diamond Bit

In some cases, you may need to supplement with a Flame Diamond Bit.

E-file speed: 1 to 2

The Flame Diamond Bit is granulated and has a narrower and more pointed shape. The shape allows it to reach smaller and tighter areas around the cuticles that the Cuticle Clean Bit does not always reach.

This step is not always necessary. If you have already removed the skin properly with the Cuticle Clean Bit, you can move on to the next step.

Step 3 File down the entire nail with a Sanding Band

Then use a Sanding Band to file down the nail plate.

E-file speed: 1 to 2
Grit: 180 or 240

Both 180 and 240 grit can be used for prep. Our personal preference is 180 grit.

Mini Sanding Bands can be extra convenient for prep because the smaller size makes it easier to work precisely and reach close to the cuticles and along the edges of the nail.

Work carefully over the entire nail plate and make sure to reach all the way out to all edges. All shine should be removed and the surface should become evenly matte without unnecessarily filing down the natural nail.

If you use nail tips

Also file down the entire tip and make sure to reach along all edges. The edge where the tip meets the natural nail can be carefully filed to create a smoother transition between the natural nail and the tip.

Step 4 Brush away the dust and check the nail

Use the Cleaning Brush Bit to remove the filing dust.

E-file speed: 1 to 2

When the dust is gone, it becomes easier to check the nail and see if there is still skin left around the cuticle area or shiny areas that you missed with your Sanding Band.

Step 5 Cut the cuticles if necessary

After working with the Cuticle Clean Bit and the optional Flame Diamond Bit, the cuticles have been lifted, making it easier to see which dead and excess skin can be cut away.

If you do not have much to cut away, or if you feel uncomfortable cutting the cuticles, you can skip this step.

Important: A Cuticle Nipper should have thin and really sharp blades, just like our Cuticle Nipper. The blades should cut the skin cleanly instead of pulling or tearing it.

Place the nipper where you intend to cut and carefully start squeezing the blades together. If you feel it pulling or hurting, you have taken too much. Then move the nipper further out and take less.

Cutting away dead skin should not be felt or hurt.

Step 6 Multi Mist and final cleaning

When the mechanical prep is finished, spray Multi Mist over the nail.

Multi Mist works as a cleanser and helps remove dust, oil, and moisture from the nail plate.

For best results, you can use the Cleaning Brush Bit, a nail brush, or a Lint Free Pad to work the product in properly and at the same time remove dust and residue from the prep. Be extra thorough around the cuticles and along the edges of the nail.

3. Bonder, Primer and Grip Crime Base Coat

After the mechanical prep, the products are used in the following order:

Bonder → Primer → Grip Crime Base Coat

Bonder

What does it do? Helps dehydrate the nail plate and leaves a sticky surface that improves the material's adhesion.

For a new set: Apply thinly only to the natural nail.
For a refill: Apply only to the natural regrowth.
Drying: Air dry for about 2 minutes. Should not be cured in a lamp.

Primer

What does it do? Primer contains acid that creates small irregularities in the nail plate that the material can grip onto, which improves adhesion.

For a new set: Apply thinly only to the natural nail.
For a refill: Apply only to the natural regrowth.
Drying: Air dry for about 2 minutes. Should not be cured in a lamp.

Grip Crime Base Coat

What does it do? Grip Crime Base Coat is a base product that focuses on adhesion and durability. Unlike a regular gel, it is not designed for color or for building the nail's strength and structure. The product is instead completely focused on creating a good adhering base for the gel that is applied on top.

For a new set: Apply over the entire nail, both the natural nail and any tip.
For a refill: Apply over both the natural regrowth and the old gel.
Curing: 60 seconds in a UV/LED lamp.
Recommended brush: Oval Brush 5

If you are going to work with acrylic, skip Grip Crime Base Coat and go directly to the acrylic application after Bonder and Primer.

We recommend Oval Brush 5 because the smaller brush makes it easier to get close to the cuticle area and along the edges. It also makes it easier to apply a small amount of product.

Apply a thin and even layer over the entire nail.

After curing, a sticky layer remains on the surface. Do not wipe it off. Go directly to the gel application.

Now the nail is ready for application

When the mechanical prep is finished and the preparatory products have been applied, the nail is ready for the next step.

A thorough prep is the foundation of a durable result. Be especially thorough around the cuticles and along the edges of the nail and make sure that skin, shine, oil, moisture, and filing dust are gone before you start applying your material.